Bella Napoli!

'Oh sole mio'...the dense reality of colors, smells, sounds, music, artists, culture, art, coffee, pizza and sfogiatelle...in one word NAPOLI! Naples has become one of the favourite destinations not only for the foreign tourists but even for Italians themselves who love spending their holidays in artistic cities. The magic behind Naples is its distinctive folclore: people living and working among the artistic beauties of the city.

Within a hour an 15 minutes from Rome with the bullet train I reach Naples...just enough time onboard to have a coffee & indulge yourself in to the newwest trend magazines before arriving. Great! I do visit Naples often and honestly as I live in Rome, it's more than sufficient to just enjoy a day trip now & then. So, put on your sporty look and head towards a lovely experience in this bustling city with an empty stomache! And remember, the day has to start well and 'con calma' (with calm) as the italian express themselves.

Now, after living for so many years in Italy sometimes I think that I have turned out to be more Italian than any other native Italian is! Hahhaaaa...simply for one reason. The coffee! Where ever I go, I just need to have a coffee. One more, then the third, fourth...a lost case when it comes to the cafeine. And how can I not have the famous napoletan breakfast with a strong, short 'caffe' accompanied by a warm 'sfogliatella' or a 'coda di aragosta'. Typical pastry freshly baked directly from the oven. Yammy! But you need to know one particular detail about the ritual of having your coffee here. As you can see from the picture it looks like my coffee cup is all dirty of zipping it, but actually it's not. The only way of serving it is from boilingly hot cups and in order to cool down the sides of the cup and not to burn your lips, you need to stain, 'macchiare', the side of it with your spoon before drinkig it!

In 6 hours I had more than enough time to 'scratch the surface' of the city. After touring for two hours on the hop on-hop off busses I headed towards the 'Rione Sanita' - the San Lorenzo of Rome or the Brooklyn of NYC. No place embodies the contradictions of the city as the 'Rione Sanita' (called the health district) - one of the most historic neighborhoods and also the most characteristic for the warm & friendly welcoming of its inhabitants. Despite its problems. Alleys, churches, Palazzo dello Spagnuolo, the outdoor market, the catacombs, the cemetery of the fountains... I recommend a visit for those who really want to understand this marvelous city with its problems and its ancestral relationship with death.

Done that, don't leave'Rione Sanita' before you pass by for a break at my favourite spot 'Da Concettina ai Tre Santi' for a fabulous pizza. Naples is after all the birth place of many things, but mostly known for us culinary lovers, like me, for the home of pizza! The one and only city were you have to eat the original pizza Margherita. Come hungry because there is no saving on the calories! Punto basta!

After I have refilled myself with new energy I want to walk through the famous 'Spaccanapoli'. It is the straight, long and narrow main street running down the middle of Naples’s centro storico (historic center). It literally means "Naples splitter"and derives from the fact that it's very long and from above it seems to divide a part of the city. The neighborhood is chaotic, vibrant, edgy, colorful, noisy, mysterious, but very beautiful. In other words, it’s the essence of Naples. A walk along Spaccanapoli takes you past peeling palaces, artisans’ workshops, churches & stores while watching the mixed low o people in different ages.

This is the place to buy your hand made christmas crib as they origin from here, 'il corno portafortuna' - the red delight in your wallet bringing you good luck or just watching every day wonders of people living in this hood. Like the funny plastic buckets or wooden baskets. Homedelivery in these baskets or plastic buckets are still a common street view. This is how they get their essential grocery delivered home. From the street to the window! Not to go so far away I do still spot this way of 'transportation' in Monti and Trastevere in Rome. Little wonders of a colorful past!

As I have almost arrived back to the central station - i do know where to pass by & get a box of ovenbaked (wooden oven) warm 'sfogliatelle' to bring home. This local bakery, a true heaven of typical sweet treats, is located just 5 minutes away from the train station and I would not miss it in the world! As I said before, no use of counting the calories - it's a game I'm already doomed to loose!

Baci,

Salla